How Many Coats of Primer on New Drywall: Quick Guide for DIYers

Priming new drywall is a key step before painting. It helps the paint stick better and look smoother. But how many coats of primer do you really need?

For most new drywall, two coats of primer are enough.

The first coat seals the surface, while the second evens things out. This gives you a good base for your paint job.

Sometimes, one coat might work if you’re using a high-quality primer. But if you see any uneven spots after the first coat dries, it’s best to add another. This extra step can make a big difference in how your final paint job looks.

how many coats of primer should be applied to new drywall.

Priming Basics and Techniques

Priming new drywall is a key step for a smooth paint job. The right primer and method help create an even surface and good paint adhesion.

Choosing the Right Primer

PVA primer works well for new drywall. It seals the surface and helps the paint stick better. Some pros use self-priming paint to save time. This option combines primer and paint in one product.

For dark paint colors, tinted primer can help. It makes the final color look richer with fewer coats of paint.

Pick a primer that dries fast if you’re in a hurry. But remember, faster isn’t always better for the end result.

Application Tips for an Even Coat

Use a roller for large areas and a brush for edges and corners. This combo gives the best coverage.

Start with thin, even coats. It’s better to do two thin coats than one thick one.

Keep a wet edge as you work to avoid lap marks. These can show through the final paint job.

Don’t skimp on primer. Make sure to cover the whole surface well.

Drying Time and Additional Coats

Let each coat of primer dry fully before adding more. Check the can for drying times. Usually, it only takes a few hours.

Most new drywall needs two coats of primer. This covers the paper and joint compound well.

Test the primer after it dries. If it still looks patchy, add another coat.

Sand lightly between coats for an extra smooth finish. This step helps the paint look its best.

How to Repair Cracks in Drywall: Patch Up Your Life and Your Walls

Got a crack in your drywall? Don’t despair, your walls aren’t falling apart! These pesky fissures are just your house’s way of saying “I’m alive!”

Drywall cracks pop up for all sorts of reasons. Maybe your home is settling into its golden years, or perhaps it’s just cranky about temperature changes. Fixing these cracks is easier than convincing a cat to take a bath.

With a quick trip to Home Depot and some elbow grease, anyone can patch up their walls. It’s like giving your house a facelift, minus the celebrity price tag. So grab your tools and get ready to become the superhero your drywall never knew it needed!

Gathering Your Drywall Repair Kit

Before diving into drywall repair, one must assemble the proper tools. A well-stocked kit is like a superhero’s utility belt, ready to tackle any crack or hole that dares to mar your walls.

Identifying Your Wall’s Mood Swings require the proper tools

Walls, like teenagers, can be moody and unpredictable. One day they’re smooth and flawless, the next they’re cracking up at the slightest joke. To diagnose these fickle surfaces, a keen eye and a few key tools are essential.

A stud finder becomes your wall’s therapist, uncovering hidden support structures. It beeps and blinks, revealing the secrets lurking behind the drywall’s poker face.

The utility knife, sharp and precise, acts as a surgeon’s scalpel. It trims away damaged areas with the finesse of a barber giving a buzz cut.

A Shopping Spree at Home Depot

Venturing into the home improvement store is like entering a candy shop for DIY enthusiasts. The aisles beckon with promises of smooth walls and victorious repairs.

Joint compound, the magical spackle of the drywall world, sits proudly on the shelf. It’s the cure-all for cracks, holes, and dents.

Drywall tape comes in various flavors: paper, fiberglass, and mesh. Each type has its own personality, ready to stick it to those pesky cracks.

Drywall screws stand at attention, eager to fasten loose panels and secure wobbly walls.

Befriending Your Putty Knife

The putty knife is the unsung hero of drywall repair. It spreads joint compound like butter on toast, smoothing over life’s little imperfections.

Putty knives come in different sizes, from dainty 2-inch models to brawny 12-inch beasts. The 4-inch and 6-inch varieties are the Goldilocks of the bunch – just right for most jobs.

A taping knife, the putty knife’s sophisticated cousin, joins the party for larger repairs. It’s wider and more flexible, perfect for spreading compound over seams and tape.

With these tools in hand, even the most intimidating wall cracks will quiver in fear. The drywall repair adventure awaits!

Illustration of a worker repairing a crack in the ceiling drywall. The scene depicts a man in a white work shirt and jeans, using a putty knife to apply joint compound to a significant crack along the ceiling. He is on a stepladder, reaching up to smooth the compound over the crack. The room is bright and simply decorated, with white walls and crown molding. The worker wears a baseball cap and a dust mask for safety, emphasizing the precision and care taken in the repair process.

The Art of Filling Cracks and Holes

Patching up drywall is like being a cosmetic surgeon for your home. It’s all about smoothing out those unsightly blemishes and making your walls look young again.

An Introduction to Drywall Dermatology

Our walls, like our skin, need some TLC from time to time. Cracks and holes are the acne of drywall, and it’s up to us to play doctor. First things first, clean the area. No one likes a dirty patient! Grab a drywall knife and scrape away any loose bits. It’s like exfoliating, but for your walls.

Next, size up the damage. Is it a tiny crack or a gaping hole? For small cracks, a bit of spackle will do the trick. It’s like putting concealer on a pimple. For bigger boo-boos, you might need to break out the big guns: drywall compound and tape.

Wrestling with Mesh vs. Paper Tape

Choosing between mesh and paper tape is like picking your favorite superhero. Both have their strengths, but one might be better suited for your mission. Mesh tape is self-adhesive and great for corners. It’s like Spider-Man, sticking to everything with ease.

Paper tape, on the other hand, is the Superman of drywall repair. It’s stronger and less likely to show through your final coat. But it needs a layer of mud to stick, so it’s a bit more work.

• Mesh tape: Easy to use, good for corners
• Paper tape: Stronger, less visible, needs mud to stick

Mixing Mud with the Finesse of a Baker

Mixing drywall compound is like baking a cake, but way less tasty. You want it smooth, not too thick, not too thin. It’s a Goldilocks situation – just right. Add water slowly, stirring as you go. Think of it as making pancake batter, but for your walls.

Once it’s mixed, let it sit for a few minutes. This gives the ingredients time to get to know each other. Then give it one last stir before you start spreading. Apply it with your drywall knife, smooth and even. It’s like frosting a cake, but vertical and less delicious.

The Final Layer: Sanding Without Tears

Sanding is the last step in our drywall makeover. It’s like giving your walls a spa treatment. Start with a coarse-grit sandpaper to smooth out the big bumps. Then switch to a finer grit for that silky-smooth finish.

Here’s a pro tip: wear a dust mask. Unless you want to look like a powdered donut, that is. Sand in a circular motion, like you’re waxing a car. Check your work often by running your hand over the surface. If it feels smooth, you’re done!

Remember, patience is key. Rome wasn’t built in a day, and perfect drywall doesn’t happen overnight. But with a little practice, you’ll be a drywall doctor in no time!

How to Remove Drywall Anchors: Quick and Easy Tips for DIY Home Repair

Removing drywall anchors is a common task in home improvement projects. Whether you’re redecorating or patching up holes, knowing how to take out these little fasteners is a handy skill.

Several easy ways to remove drywall anchors include using pliers, a screwdriver, or even pushing them through the wall. The best method depends on the type of anchor and how it was installed. Some can be unscrewed, while others might need to be pulled out or recessed into the wall.

DIY enthusiasts often face this task when hanging new shelves or moving picture frames. With a bit of patience and the right technique, anyone can learn to remove drywall anchors without causing too much damage to the wall. It’s a simple job that can make a big difference in home upkeep and decor.

A hand drill removes drywall anchors from a white wall, with debris falling to the floor below

Preparation and Safety

Getting ready to remove drywall anchors takes some planning. You’ll need the right tools and safety gear before starting. This helps make the job easier and keeps you safe.

Gathering the Right Tools

To remove drywall anchors, you’ll want a few key tools on hand. A screwdriver is essential for taking out screws. Pliers, especially needle-nose pliers, help grip and pull out stubborn anchors. A hammer can tap around the anchor to loosen it.

For tough jobs, a drill might come in handy. A utility knife can cut around painted-over anchors. Sandpaper smooths rough spots after removal. Having these tools ready saves time and frustration during the project.

Safety Precautions

Safety should always come first when working on home projects. Wear protective goggles to shield your eyes from dust and debris. This is super important when using power tools or hammering.

Keep the work area clear of clutter to avoid tripping. If using a ladder, make sure it’s stable on flat ground. When pulling out anchors, work slowly to avoid losing balance.

Dust from drywall can irritate lungs. Open windows for good air flow. A dust mask adds extra protection. Always unplug power tools when not in use to prevent accidents.

Removing and Repairing

Taking out drywall anchors can be tricky, but with the right tools and methods, you can get them out and fix the wall. There are different ways to remove anchors and patch up the holes they leave behind.

Types of Drywall Anchors and Removal Techniques

Plastic anchors are common and easy to remove. Just grab them with pliers and pull them out. For stubborn ones, push them into the wall first.

Metal anchors like toggle bolts need special care. Unscrew the bolt, then push the toggle part into the wall cavity. You can cover the hole later.

Threaded anchors and molly bolts can be tough. Try unscrewing them with pliers. If that doesn’t work, you may need to recess them into the wall.

For really stuck anchors, use a drill bit slightly bigger than the anchor to grind down its edges. This makes it easier to pull out or push in.

Patching and Smoothing the Wall

After removing anchors, you’ll need to fix the holes. Small holes from plastic anchors are easy – just fill them with spackle or joint compound.

For bigger holes, use a putty knife to apply drywall compound. Build it up in thin layers, letting each one dry before adding more.

Once the patch is dry, sand it smooth. Use fine-grit sandpaper and go slowly to blend the edges with the wall.

For the best finish, prime the patched area before painting. This helps the new paint match the rest of the wall.

Remember to clean up any dust from sanding before you paint. A damp cloth works well for this.

Why Go To The Bar When You Could Build Your Own?

Screen Shot 2015-02-04 at 12.18.17 AMGoing to the bar is expensive. Along with the $10 cover, it’s $20 for a couple of beers and the inevitable cab ride home. So why not pocket the $50 for a night out and instead pay less than $40 for an at-home bar to provide years of entertainment? By repurposing some old wood and purchasing only the building supplies, it is totally possible!

Besides the repurposed wood, these supplies are required:

  • Sheathing
  • Screws
  • Stain
  • Polytheurane
  • Saw

Start by framing the bar, using 16″ centers. Create the sides of the bar by attaching sheathing to the frame. Reddit user 7thsonwoodworking found those pieces at a gas station, but can also be found at a local building site or hardware store for free with just a couple “please and thank you”‘s.

Screen Shot 2015-02-04 at 12.18.40 AM

Use plywood for the surface of the bar and screw wooden boards to the surface for the 12″ overhang of the bar. These will also serve as the frame for the inlays. Screen Shot 2015-02-04 at 12.19.01 AM

In order to create a chevron badocams look with the inlays on the surface, measure and cut each board so each side matches up to make the arrow shape. Do this until reaching the middle where both sides meet up. Get creative for this section, 7thsonwoodworking decided on a geometric pentagon shape, but any shape to fill the space will do. Similarly, the fronts and sides should also possess these designs. Screen Shot 2015-02-04 at 12.19.18 AM

Stain the trim of the surface, front and sides until reaching the desired hue. Once stained, screw all the corners of the inlays in. This will be the longest step in the process. Attach the trim to the surface, sides and front. Finally add a layer of polytheurane to make the bar shiny, crisp and clean. Screen Shot 2015-02-04 at 12.19.31 AM

For the advanced class, build some shelving behind the bar to keep all needed liquor and garnishes nearby. This finished look will have people wanting to party in a basement for the first time since high school.

Be nice, and no matter how tempting, don’t charge a cover. Screen Shot 2015-02-04 at 12.19.47 AM

The Most Important $12 Door Update To Do

IMG_3511-2

Doors are often ignored in a renovation. Countertops, walls, appliances, all of these updates are fair game. But think about all the time guests spend looking at the doors of a home. This $12 update will add glamour to any doorway.

And the process? Couldn’t be simpler. Purchase a 1/4″ piece of plywood. Then measure out the spaces needed between the panels. Once all the horizontal spaces are even, secure the plywood to the door with a nail gun. Repeat the steps on the other side.

IMG_4293

Once all the pieces are attached, sand down any rough edges present. Once all is smooth, install the door. This can be done before or after painting or staining the door.

IMG_4294

When the paint or stain has dried, this new door can completely transform the way a room looks. Try adding this paneling to all doors of a home for a consistent look.

IMG_4311

For a step-by-step guide, check out Jenna Sue Design!

IMG_4324

Once you’re done with the doors in your home, call Chicago Handyman and renovate the spaces within the doors!